Saks Fifth Avenue - Issa London Pre-Fall 2015 Collection

Issa presents Pre-Fall 2015, exploring the brand's signature elements of wrapping and draping to elegant effect and juxtaposing these flowing qualities with tailoring and structured body con pieces to create contrasting moments of movement and stillness.

This season sees the Issa woman in sophisticated mood; refined navy and black base colours are offset with cream, petal and grey tones, and enlivened with flashes of hot pink. Prints present floral interpretations from colour blocked forest fauna, to more painterly brushstroke prints and winding buds and vines, with gold hardware on exposed zips and feature buttons lending a contrary polish to these organically inspired prints.

The collection explores the brand’s signature wrap construction to fresh effect; a navy and black pencil dress features a wrap front with white contrast piping, framing the bust, sleeves and belt to graphic effect, whilst trousers in signature silk jersey are wrapped and tied at the waist lending an elegant tapered drape. The belting of the wrap dress is another theme explored further- long fabric belts are added to dresses and tops, designed to be wound around to accentuate the waist, and this belting is extended to outerwear with wool coats featuring slim fabric belts tied obi style.

The fluidity of the brand’s designs, stemming from the draping for which it is renowned, is developed through varying techniques to create movement; from the traditional draping of signature dresses, to gentle gathering, ruching, pleating and pin tucking on trousers, dresses and shirts. This is a collection that comes alive when worn; a full length black jersey dress features a contrasting navy pleated georgette panel that floats out when walking, and a pleated dress concertinas in movement to display a graphic floral print.

Moments of contrasting stillness appear in dresses that combine fitted rayon knitted cut out tops with fluid skirts, and a black and white printed dress features a kilt like pleated stepped skirt that creates contrasts in movement in one garment. Structured pieces mimic the effect of movement by appearing caught in gently waving animation- a felted knit skirt is fluted to kick out in waves, a chic bandeau top is given a ruffled hem and coats and capes are created from a unique rippled wool.

Embroidery is also given a fluid treatment, with a black cocktail dress featuring an embroidered front that features light weight woven metallic tape with an almost liquid sheen.