First stop: India, with a necklace whose reversible structure, interplay of colour and motifs pay homage to traditional Mughal jewellery. On one side, light bursts from the fire of diamonds, white gold and sculpted rock crystal. On the other, an explosion of red, green and blue lacquer elements make reference to an emblematic Cartier colour combination.
The centre features three oval brilliant-cut diamonds, visible on both sides. Each pavilion is set in a translucent rock crystal motif that harmonises the volume at the back and leaves the diamonds visible. This highly precise lapidary work is repeated on the rock crystal drops around the edge of the necklace, whose design is reminiscent of the boteh motif, an inseparable part of the Indian repertoire. The back of each diamond pavé motif is lacquered in red, green or blue and the finished creation gently drapes over the skin, whatever the chosen look.
As we look ever further afield, why not go all the way to the farthest reaches of Asia? Cartier is passionate about the beauty of its myths, which the jewellers have translated into a sovereign piece. From the crest to the scales and slender limbs, the dragon, a faithful creature of the Cartier bestiary, is filled with an intense energy that is reinforced by the realism of the design. Both protector and predator, dominating a 30.11-carat octagonal tourmaline, it holds a yellow diamond in its clutches. Its eye sparkles with the fire of a yellow pear-cut diamond.
Pinecone or wisteria? For Cartier, the plant world is an infinite source of inspiration, and for this piece an abstract approach has been taken. Abstract, but brimming with vitality, as reflected in its organic appearance, its great flexibility and the vivacity of its colour palette.
This necklace features two slightly asymmetrical pendants made of pavé rose gold scales enhanced by coral or emerald details.
Reminiscent of the structure of pine cones, these motifs are arranged in staggered, overlapping rows. This voluminous, articulated architecture culminates in a waterfall of singularly cut gems. Two separate vines hold a series of faceted beads, with two yellow briolette-cut diamonds weighing a total of 14.59 carats and two hexagonal Colombian emeralds weighing 25.84 carats.
The starting point: a line of Ceylon sapphires around which everything is structured. On either side, sapphire and emerald motifs form a symmetrical grid punctuated by graphic onyx details that produce an almost kinetic effect. This structure reveals an organisation in distinct planes, like architecture. The overall effect is a chromatic signature of the Maison, dubbed the 'peacock motif' by Louis Cartier.
This creation, which combines geometry, optical effects and volume design, is based on the work of two experts. Before the first designs were created in the Design
Studio, the Maison's gem experts found a group of sapphires remarkable for their rare harmony of colour and shape. Next, eighteen sapphires and thirty-six emeralds were cut into triangles by the Maison lapidaries and then set one by one in motifs assembled on several levels, in a setting designed to emphasise the aesthetics of a necklace that slips effortlessly over the skin.
Cartier has made a 4.15 carat yellow-brown Fancy diamond, with an original diamond cut, the centrepiece of this ring with a dazzling game of volume. The architecture of the shapes and the choice of this singular solar diamond make this an intensely Cartier creation.